by Elyse Glickman - October 27, 2009

Diamonds and Pearls, Now and Forever

When shopping for bridal jewelry, look for stunning pieces that will not only be great heirlooms tomorrow, but reflect who you are today!

Though white diamonds and pearls have been traditional accoutrements for generations of brides, today’s brides are bending tradition in all kinds of creative ways, according to Konstantina, the Arizona-based force behind Mahlia Collection. “ “Brides want something for the big day that has not done before,” she says. “Brides I work with are not the person who buys the ‘it’ bag or shoe, but somebody searching within herself to find a piece that resonates with who she is from the inside out. It should not be a status symbol, but about subtle opulence and individuality. What you choose should be something nobody else has, and prettier in your mind’s eye.”

Konstantina also observes that many of her bridal clients are not doing big necklaces, and are instead moving statement pieces to hands, wrists and ears so the bride is not drowned out by her jewelry. “Beautiful earrings are a must because they draw attention to the bride’s face,” she says. “However, be careful not to overdo it. You don’t want to have people staring more at the earrings than you, so opt for simple studs and drops, which are making a real comeback. One thing I love about Southern brides is that they celebrate their femininity, and pay a lot of attention to their grooming. To suit this, there are a lot of great pearl studs and drops coming out, including lovely baroque shapes.”

Andrea Hansen, U.S. spokesperson for Rio de Janerio-based fine jeweler H. Stern, notes colored diamonds and stones are increasingly a part of the bridal statement-making equation. On the high end, she notes yellow and pink diamonds are popular, and there is growing interest in cognac and black diamonds, and pieces combining multiple colors, though not in engagement rings.

“The influence of fashion editorials encourages more women to think of fine jewelry as an integral part of their wedding day look, instead of diamond solitaires or pearls that blend in the background,” says Hansen. “We’ve noticed modern brides are drawn to pieces inspired by nature, which offers a romantic, modern and yet classic approach to the overall bridal look. There is also greater interest in alternative golds, such as our 18K Noble Gold, that looks very vintage-y and flatter with a flesh tone that is neither white nor yellow and works with most hues of white and ivory.”

Margo Manhattan has also observed that colored diamonds and a variety of necklace lengths have found their way into bridal ensembles. However, the New York designer advises that brides should pay attention not only to their dress’ neckline, but also the shape of their neck. It is just as important that the piece enhances and flatters the bride herself.

“Brides should pay attention to their skin tone and color of their dresses,” she says. “Canary or champagne diamonds that get their color from nature, not from being heat-treated, are especially becoming. If you’re going to go with a higher neckline, consider replacing a necklace with stand-out stud earrings and a gorgeous cuff bracelet. Otherwise, look at your neck shape. If you have a wider neck hang, you’ll want to go for a pendant. If you have a narrow neck, opt for a choker. Also, consider lariat necklaces, which are in my fall collection. What’s great about these pieces is that they work with any neckline and body type because they can be worn as a choker or like a Y-necklace. You can also add different pendants at the end to further customize the look. Necklines and neck shapes should also be considered when selecting earring.”

Hollywood accessory guru Charlie Lapson brings A-list flair to your fall wedding with his bridal jewelry line. The 19-year fashion veteran (currently known for his sleek handbag line, fashion watches, clothing and fine jewelry) is the expert the stars of Desperate Housewives and Grey’s Anatomy turn to when they need to be 100 percent sure they get their special-day accessorizing right.

“When it comes to jewelry, the idea that more is better doesn’t work,” he says. “Much of the time, going simple on the big day is quite chic, especially with elaborate fabrics used in fall or winter wedding dresses. However, it is important that brides understand how to create the right balance of materials with the fit of the dress and the other accents used.”

Lapson is also a fan of pairing vintage pieces with thoughtfully chosen modern accents. He adds that during recessionary times like these, many young brides he works with choose to make a piece worn by their mother, grandmother or great-grandmother the principal piece of jewelry. To make that piece their own, and update the overall effect, they will add simple, contemporary accent pieces. “Combining old and new pieces sensibly brings a nice ying-yang to the overall look,” he says. “It is also an approach to accessorizing a dress that is in tune with the times. It is less frivolous, and allows the bride to celebrate her family and the past while expressing her own individuality. It’s a perfect marriage—pun totally intended—the two worlds.”

Suggestions from our experts on harmonious neckline and bridal jewelry couplings.

The Romantic Bride

For this look, think “something old, something new.” Carefully chosen heirlooms will make this look more unique and befitting of you as an individual.
Because the hairstyles of today are more detailed and modern, materials used now are softer and have a better drape than those of several decades ago. Jewelry and accessories should follow suit in that area.
Just as you should be careful not to go overboard with accessories, also take care to be sure that the accessories are not too simple—avoid the look being too plain.
Take care to be sure that your accessories are harmonious with the fabrics or trims found in the dress. Just as colors can clash, so can accents.

The Contemporary Bride

Add a simple, not-too-busy drop or stud earring.
Keep the subtle theme going in the back with a hair accessory with pearls or stones that play off the design in the lace of the dress. It will add something extra to a bun, a twist, or a loose knot.
Do a “Y” or lariat-style necklace—and keep it delicate to work with the lace. To balance the look with a bracelet, keep it simple with something such as a tennis bracelet.

The Exotic Bride

Be sure that colors and patterns fit in a definitive range, and don’t go off in too many directions with shapes or colors.
If you go ornate in one area, such as a necklace, go simple in another, such as the earrings or bracelet.
If your wedding involves several events, and several dress changes, go for accessories that can easily transition from one look to the next.
Do go for one standout piece that taps in to your favorite feature—such as your lips, eyes, or neck.